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Integrated Pest &amp Pollinator Management

Overview

After in­vesting time and money in planting a garden, many anxious gardeners quickly grab for the most pow­erful pesticide as they spot the first pests and fear devastating damage like previous seasons. Inte­grated Pest Management (IPM) teaches a more pro­active approach by combining a series of pre-plant and post-plant tactics to use throughout the growing season. Emerging problems are then managed with the most effective control that has the lowest impact on the people and the environment, and considers the cost of the treatment.

Defining Pest Management. Pest management is a multi-faceted discipline that involves much more than simply spraying pesticides. It seeks to consider the cost of pest control and the impact on the environment, wildlife and humans, all while maintaining the goal of reducing pests below an acceptable threshold. MGVs can learn then teach others multiple pest management techniques to keep pests below acceptable levels. Fortunately, these techniques have wide application from landscapes and nursery crops to turf, Christmas trees and vegetable production.

In this module, the discussion focuses on gardens and how to use non-chemical techniques (cultural controls), natural enemies (biological controls), and if warranted pesticides (chemical controls) to reduce but not eliminate pest populations.

There are many approaches to managing pests in crops, gardens, yards and homes. These range from applying no control measures to applying pesticides on a regular schedule. Some people will not use pesticides; others will want to get rid of the pest by any means. MGVs must be aware of all the methods and materials that can be used to manage pests, then select the best methods for a particular situation. That’s the IPM approach.

Five Steps to IPM

IPM provides MGV’s with a systematic approach to pest control. It begins with selecting and planning for each crop while using the best gardening practices to reduce the potential for insect pests, diseases and weeds. Follow these steps to practice IPM like a pro!

• Monitor - Right after seeds are sown or transplants are placed in the garden, it is important to frequently inspect the plants for signs of insect feeding, disease or weed emergence that can damage plants and compete for precious resources. Look carefully at plant stems, leaves, buds and eventually flowers and fruit to see if any unwanted activity is occurring. Learn to recognize normal plant growth and be observant for any deviations. Try keeping a journal and record pest locations, concentrations and day-to-day changes. Also, when purchasing plants, remember to inspect them for hitchhiker pests that can easily be transported from the greenhouse to the home landscape.
• Identify - Next, it is important to properly identify problems. Figure out what is causing the damage. Insects on or nearby the damaged plants may or may not be the culprit. Once the pest is identified, get to know its life cycle and behavioral patterns to determine if immediate action is necessary and, if so, the most benign approach to try first. (See the entomology module for more information.) Do not assume that every insect in the garden is a pest! In fact, only 3 percent of all bugs are considered harmful. The remaining 97 percent are beneficial, so take advantage of various resources to properly identify pests. Helpful resources include university factsheets, reference books, local extension educators, nearby garden centers or the Plant Pest Diagnostic Clinic.

• Thresholds - Since IPM considers a certain amount of pest damage as acceptable, it is up to individual gardeners to determine those levels. In this third step of IPM, gardeners must define their own action thresholds or damage levels requiring action. These damage levels may vary from gardener to gardener or from plant to plant depending on what’s at stake. For example, a gardener may tolerate some leaf damage on a bean vine grown in a hobby vegetable garden but less damage on show dahlias grown for exhibition. Below are some preliminary guidelines to help gauge the level of infestation that might warrant possible control.

• Action - If a specific threshold has been exceed­ed, the next step is to select a course of action. The gardener will select which of the possible controls is most effective and appropriate in a particular situation, ranging from physically removing the pest or leaf from the plant to using an insecticide or fungicide to control pests. If a pesticide is to be used, selecting the right pesticide with the narrowest spectrum for the pest is very important. For exam­ple, growers should consider using a soap product to control aphids over other foliar applied synthetic insecticides if possible to avoid harming non-target and benificial insects. Typically weeds are either pulled, smothered by mulches, or treated with herbi­cides to control them prior to setting seed.

• Evaluation - After applying the control tactic, evaluate how well the pest was reduced and if this tactic should be used again. Keep this information handy for future pest invasions.

Cultural Controls

Cultural control practices are non-chemical methods and techniques the gardener can adopt to change environmental factors that affect plant development and help protect plants from pests. Cultural practices include irrigation, crop rotation, garden sanitation, mulching, weed screens, barriers, row covers, tillage, plant timing, trapping, disease resistant plants and more. It is critical that gardeners know about the range of options, since some need to be employed at the time of seed or transplant purchase but before planted in the garden. Providing the correct growing conditions results in vigorous plants that are better able to prevent and recover from pest attacks. Key to cultural control target section below: Insects = I, Diseases = D, Weeds = W

• Hand Removal (I,D,W) – Hand pick or shake adult or immature pests into a can or bucket that contains a small amount of water and detergent; scrape off and crush egg masses. Pull diseased leaves off the plant and remove them from the garden area. Pull weeds from around planted crops and dispose of them.
• Individual Plant Barriers (I) - Firmly place plastic or metal containers around seedlings or transplants to prevent cutworms (ground dwelling caterpillars) from injuring these young plants.
• Row Covers (I) – Place these light- to medium weight, semi-durable fabrics over a section of the garden or an entire raised bed and secure to the ground to protect from flying or crawling insects. Row covers function to physically exclude insects from reaching the garden plants where they might feed and have recently been shown to reduce some airborne diseases. To avoid trapping pests inside the row covers, place the covers on immediately after seedlings emerge or transplants are planted. For fruiting plants, the row cover must be removed once the plants begin to flower or pollination and fruit set will be affected. Row covers also increase the tem­perature inside the canopy leading to rapid plant development, and if used in the spring and fall, protect tender plants from light frost conditions. Control the weeds beneath the row cover by using organic or plastic mulches. 
• Traps (I) – Both colored sticky and pheromone traps serve as monitoring systems, warning of the presence or increase in undesirable pest numbers. Traps also can be useful in timing control measures but are rarely able to control insect populations.
  • Yellow sticky traps attract whiteflies, aphids, thrips, leafhoppers, beetles, stink bugs and other flying insects. Be aware that these sticky traps will also attract and catch beneficial insects or natural enemies.
  • Pheromone traps use attractive scents to tantalize adult insects and are best used to check pests'presence and their concentrations. Traps that utilize pheromones include Japanese beetle, corn earworm, squash vine borer and many others. Both sticky and pheromone traps are fairly easy to set up.
  • Bug zappers use ultraviolet light to attract and kill insects and, like other traps, can kill beneficial insects as well as pests. 
• Syringing or Blasting (I) - A hard stream of water from a hose washes aphids, spider mites and other small insects from plant foliage. This blasting must be done frequently, since it may not kill the insects which can crawl back onto plants to continue feed­ing. 
• Mulches (W, D) – Organic mulches are materials like straw, pine needles, newspaper and cardboard that cover the soil and prevent weed emergence. These materials also conserve moisture and can be worked into the soil at the end of the season. Plastic mulches are petroleum-based films that come in many colors (e.g., white, black, brown and clear). They cover the soil and aid in both weed suppression and soil warming. These plastic materials are impervious to water and need to be drip irrigated. Mulches prevent soil splash onto fruit and plants which reduces disease transmission.
• Plant Genetics / Hybrids (D, I) – Planting pest-resistant varieties is one of the most valuable cultural techniques for growers. Almost all vegetable crops have been traditionally bred to contain several disease “packages” which allow for resistance or tolerance to specific pathogens, such as early blight and specific viruses. These pest-resistant genes are clearly marked in the seed catalog and should result in a healthier plant with reduced need for fungicide applications. Grafted plants are now becoming commercially available and offer tremendous benefit by combining disease-resistant traits of one variety (root stock) with the desired hybrid (scion) to produce foliage and fruit with reduced disease expression. These are especially valuable in soils where Fusarium, Verticillium or other soil-borne diseases are present.
• Rotation (I, D, W) – Crop rotation involves moving crop families in a systematic way around the garden to help break up insect and disease life cycles. Since diseases and insects tend to attack families of plants (e.g., tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant – all Solanaceous crops), move them as a group around the garden as much as possible. This practice is best combined with sanitation.
• Sanitation (I, D, W) – Sanitation is the process of removing plant debris from the garden after finishing crop harvests. Removing and shredding this debris into a compost pile will reduce insect harborage, lower disease inoculum and increase decomposition. Also at this time, it is important to remove from the garden any flowering weeds or those about to set seed to prevent future weeds.
• Trap Crops (I) – Insects have host plant preferences just like people have food preferences. With trap crops, the concept is to encircle the garden or plants on one or two sides with other plants that are highly preferred by the pest but not the target crop intended to grow. As pests invade the garden, they should concentrate on this trap crop where they can more easily be treated or simply intercepted and slowed from getting to the target crop. This approach can be successful for pests such as cucumber beetle and Colorado potato beetle, but a strict protocol must be followed for it to be successful. Even with the trap crop, some insects will make it to the target crop.
• Timing (I, D, W) – Plant crops either earlier or later in the season than their traditional planting time 
to miss the arrival or emergence of certain pests. This technique is best used with known pest insect generations such as aphids, cucumber beetles, corn earworm, etc. Be aware that by moving the planting time to avoid one pest, other pests may be encoun­tered. (See phenology in the Entomology module)

Biological Controls

Biological control is the beneficial action of parasites, pathogens and predators in managing pests and their damage. Biocontrol provided by these living organisms, collectively called “natural enemies,” is especially important for reducing the numbers of pest insects and mites and can also be used to control some weeds and plant diseases. Natural enemies include common predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies, wasps, ground beetles, praying mantids, mites and spiders, parasitoid wasps and many other groups. Common examples of bio-control in the garden are hornworm caterpillars and aphids being attacked by parasitoid wasps or ladybeetle larvae or adults feeding on aphids.

Conservation, augmentation and classical biological control are tactics for harnessing these natural enemies’ benefits.

Meet the Killers: Predators, Parasitoids, and Microorganisms

Natural enemies are beneficial predators and parasitoids that rely on insects and other arthropods as their primary food source. Predators are distin­guished by eating their prey, like a praying mantis capturing and eating a moth. On the other hand par­asitoids are typically tiny wasps or flies that locate their hosts using chemical cues. Once found they lay an egg in or on the host which hatches into a larvae that burrows into the host and begins devour­ing the host from the inside out, eventually killing it. Learn to recognize these beneficial insects and avoid killing them when controlling other pests with insecticides, especially broad spectrum ones. Even birds, bats, reptiles and amphibians can help man­age pest populations, so provide water and flower­ing plants to encourage them to visit the garden. 

Other biological controls of pests include microor­ganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Some of the compounds they produce are called microbial insecticides and will be covered in more detail in the pesticide safety section. 

Bio-control strategies:

• Proper identification of pests is essential for effective biological control. It’s also important to distinguish pests from natural enemies. (See the entomology module for more information on both topics.) Carefully observe the mites and insects on plants to help discern their activity. For example, some people may mistake syrphid fly larvae for caterpillars. However, syrphid fly larvae are found feeding on aphids and not chewing on the plant itself. If pests are found on plants, observe them with a good hand lens, and consult publications and websites to learn more. Take unfamiliar organisms to local extension offices or consult other MGVs to confirm identification.
• Preserve existing natural enemies by selecting narrow spectrum insecticides to control targeted pests while minimizing harm to beneficial species.
• Attract natural enemies to the landscape by planting flowering plants that offer pollen and nectar food sources if their primary prey is not in the vicinity. There are many plants like Sweet Alyssum and Phacelia (tansy) that are known to be great for attracting a wide array of natural enemies. Even with these plantings that attract natural enemies, it is normal to find small pest populations somewhere in the area.
• Augment. When resident natural enemies are insufficient, their populations can sometimes be increased (augmented) through the purchase and release of commercially available beneficial species. However, this strategy is only recommended for use in greenhouses, high tunnels or other confined spaces.
• Classical biological control is used to manage exotic pests such as emerald ash borer or brown marmorated stink bug by importing their natural enemies from the pests country of origin. Many organisms are not pests in their native country but become unusually abundant after colonizing new locations void of their natural controls. When these outbreaks occur researchers might go to the pest's native country, study and collect the natural enemies that control the pest there, then ship promising natural enemies back for testing and possible release. By law, natural enemy importation must be done only by qualified scientists with government permits. The multi-colored Asian lady beetles were brought to this country in this manner.

Arachnids are good at pest control

• Crab spiders
• Jumping spiders
• Daddy long legs

Chemical Controls

Pesticides are the third basic pillar of IPM. To define “pesticide,” the word’s root “-cide” means to kill, and the targeted “pests” include insects, weeds and diseases. Consequently, insecticides kill insects; herbicides kill plants; fungicides kill fungi; and bactericides kill bacteria. In a legal sense, every “pesticide” is required to be registered with the EPA through the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA).

Ideally, pesticides should control only the target pest and not affect or kill other organisms. Products should also degrade quickly and leave the environment with little or no negative impact. They should have low toxicity for humans and other mammals.

The way a pesticide affects the pest is important to know when choosing and applying the correct pesticide.  

• Insecticides: Contact insecticides must be applied to the plant or cover the pest and be absorbed through the cuticle to be effective. Systemic insecticides are absorbed through plant roots or shoots and circulated throughout the plant. When pests feed on the plants, they ingest the insecticide and may be killed. Other insecticides like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) must be applied to the plant and consumed by the pest to be effective.
• Fungicides: Contact or protectant fungicides such as chlorothalonil must be on the plant prior to infection to be effective. This material forms a barrier and functions by preventing spore germination. A few fungicides have systemic properties that allow them to circulate throughout plant tissue providing all-over plant protection.
• Herbicides: Contact herbicides can be classified as non-selective if they kill both broadleaves and grasses (glyphosate, for example), or selective if they kill either broadleaves or grasses (e.g., 2,4-D or pendimethalin). Pre-emergent herbicides prevent weed seeds from germinating into seedlings.

Pesticide Resistance. Pests such as insects, weeds and diseases can become resistant to certain classes of chemicals (pesticides) if not used in the correct manner by either using non-labeled rates of application or improper pesticide rotation. Pesticide use rates are straight forward, but rotation of pesticide modes of action (MOA) are more difficult requiring broader knowledge of which products fall into which MOA groups. Just by rotating products and brand names does not ensure rotation of MOA. These topics are important but beyond the scope of this course.

A mode of action is the mechanism by which a pesticides works. These mechanisms are often categorized into groups and are designated by numbers and/or letters. Pesticide resistance can occur if a mode-of-action group is overused.

• Insecticide Modes of Action
• Fungicide Modes of Action
• Herbicide Modes of Action

Insecticidal Soaps & Oils

Insecticidal soaps are made from the salts of fatty acids found in plants and animals. Not to be confused with ordinary cleaning soaps which may damage plants, insecticidal soaps are contact insecticides and effective against soft-bodied pests. They should be considered a first defense against pests such as aphids, thrips, crawler-stage scales, whiteflies, leafhoppers and mites.

Insecticidal soaps work by disrupting a pest’s respiratory system and cell membranes. Soaps are commonly used in more environmentally sensitive areas such as homes or interior spaces. Some insecticidal soap products contain additional insecticidal compounds such as pyrethrins or citrus oils which may alter the overall toxicity of the product.

While these products aren’t certified organic, they are often considered “organic” in origin and used by most organic gardeners. In addition, they are also considered selective because of the narrow band of insects they control.

Insecticidal soaps have the same general mammalian toxicity traits of any soap or detergent. Take caution when handling these soaps, since their contact with mucus membranes, such as eyes or mouth, may cause temporary irritation or a burning sensation. Also, ingesting these soaps may cause an upset stomach and vomiting, but the consequences normally aren’t serious. Some insecticidal soap concentrates contain up to 30 percent ethyl alcohol, which can cause intoxication at doses above several ounces; however, vomiting is likely to clear most of the alcohol from the system before it is fully absorbed.

Horticultural oils are highly refined mineral oils used at very low rates to cover plants. They appear to work by clogging the breathing tubes of insects and mites, damaging cells beneath their exoskeleton and smothering their eggs. Dormant oils are less refined than horticultural oils but function in the same way, except they are applied only when the plant is dormant and the temperature is above 40 F for 24 hours after application. Horticultural oils (at 1% - 2% emulsion) can be used as dormant oils (at 4% - 5% emulsion).

While oils were used to control insects and mites in the 1700s, these early uses usually resulted in killing the plants as well as the insects. Oils for insect and mite control came into widespread use after oil-refining techniques were developed that freed the petroleum oils of unsaturated hydrocarbons, acids and highly volatile elements.

Both horticultural soaps and oils break down into harmless materials in a short time. Another advantage is the low risk of insects developing a resistance to these soaps and oils.

Botanical Insecticides

Botanicals, as they are sometimes called, are made or derived from plants and include pyrethrums, pyrethrins, sabadilla, ryania, citrus oil extracts, capsaicin, neem oil and others. Botanical insecticides are popular because they rapidly degrade in the environment, are less of a threat to non-target organisms and can be applied to food crops closer to harvest than other insecticides. Although they may not kill the pest for hours or days, they generally have low-to-moderate toxicity for mammals.

There are also disadvantages to using botanicals. They typically must be applied more frequently, may be more costly, may be difficult to obtain and are toxic to mammals although generally less toxic than synthetic insecticides. Many botanical insecticides are approved for organic use but have not been thoroughly researched for effectiveness as other classes of insecticides.

Synthetic Insecticides

Organophosphates, Carbamates, Neonicotinoids. Synthetic pesticides became popular because they were less expensive, more effective, faster acting and generally longer lasting than other classes. In some cases, synthetics are the only effective control option. Both synthetic and “natural” pesticides are capable of harming humans, wildlife, and the environment if mishandled, so it’s crucial to follow label instructions when using any pesticide.

A common organophosphate insecticide is malathion, and a common carbamate insecticide is Sevin® (carbaryl). Both of these two chemical groups are considered contact materials effective against both chewing and sucking pests. Another large class of insecticides are the neonicotinoids such as Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control (imidicloprid). This insecticide group is systemic in the plant and effective against primarily sucking pests but also some chewing pests.

Synthetic Pesticides – A Brief History of Pyrethroids. Pyrethroids are currently one of the largest classes of insecticides available in the home market for garden and landscape use. This class was originally derived from raw, unrefined ground African chrysanthemum flower heads, which produce a product called pyrethrum noted for its minimal insecticidal properties. This material when further refined showed increased insecticidal activity and was called pyrethrin. Both of these products are organically approved and used by many gardeners. These products could control a wide spectrum of insects and were known to have good knock down of insects but sometimes were not able to completely kill the insects. When a synergist called PBO (piperonyl butoxide) was added to pyrethrin, the lethality of the combined product increased tremendously. Modern day pyrethroids are improved synthetic versions of pyrethrins and tend to be longer lasting and have higher efficacy among a wider group of insects. Most major chemical companies have developed their own pyrethroid chemistry with active ingredients such as permethrin, cypermethrin, bifenthrin, lamba-cyhalothrin, cyfluthrin and esfenvalerate.

Microbial Insecticides

Many gardeners are familiar with a popularly known microbial-based insecticide known as Bt or Bacillus thuringiensis, a common soil bacterium which produces a protein toxin that kills specific groups of insects, such as fly larvae, beetle larvae and caterpillars. The larval pest usually dies within a few days of ingesting the insecticide, and the only caveat with Bt is that the smaller the larvae, the more effective the pesticide works. There are several commercially available Bt products such as Dipel™ and Thuricide™ used to control caterpillars of moths and butterflies. Since there are many strains of Bt, it is absolutely critical that the correct type of Bt is used to control the specific pest which will be listed on the label. Strictly speaking, a Bt strain designed to kill beetle larvae will not control caterpillars.

Genetically Modified Organisms

The basic definition of a GMO is an organism whose genome has been altered by the techniques of genetic engineering so its DNA contains one or more genes not normally found there. Since 1995, modern agriculture has used this advance in science to improve the quality, flavor, nutrient density or insect protection of certain crops. For example, scientists can take the gene coding for a specific pesticidal protein from a bacteria (Bt) and introduce that gene into a plant’s genetic material (sweet corn, potato, cabbage, etc.) so that each plant cell manufactures the pesticidal protein that controls the pest when it feeds on the plant (also called Plant Incorporated Protectants or PIP’s). These proteins have not been found to harm people and reduce the need for pesticide use on these crops.

These transformations are done to allow the plant or fruit to protect itself in various ways and in the long run seek to reduce pesticide use or to enhance some aspect of the plant or fruit. Both the protein and its genetic material are regulated by EPA; the plant itself is not regulated.

When assessing the potential risks of genetically engineered PIPs, EPA requires extensive studies examining numerous factors, such as risks to human health, non-target organisms and the environment, potential for gene flow, and the need for insect resistance (or other resistance) management plans.

In regulating PIPs, decisions are based on strict scientific standards and extensive input from academia, industry, other Federal agencies and the public. Before the first PIP product was registered in 1995, EPA required that PIP products be thoroughly tested against human safety standards before they were used on human food and livestock feed crops. EPA scientists assessed a wide variety of potential effects associated with the use of PIPs, including acute reactions, such as toxicity, allergenicity, and skin and eye irritation, as well as long-term effects including cancer, birth defects, and reproductive and neurological system disorders. Scientists also evaluated these potential effects in light of the public’s potential exposures to these pesticides, taking into account all potential combined sources of the exposure (food, drinking water, etc.) to determine the likelihood that a person would be exposed at levels that would pose a health risk. Based on reviews of the scientific studies and often peer reviews by the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Scientific Advisory Panel, EPA determined that these genetically engineered PIP products, when used in accordance with approved label directions and use restrictions, would not pose unreasonable risk to human health and the environment during their time-limited registration.

In the discussion about developing GMOs, it is important to remember that this is a very different process than traditional breeding where the same species are crossed to produce a hybrid or grafting where the scion and root stock of different varieties of the same species are joined to create a plant that has advantages of both plants without breeding. While the safety concerns of this new production technology will be debated for years, it may take decades until the implications, both positive and negative, are fully understood.

Read more:

• Genetically Engineered Crops: Experiences and Prospects

Pesticide Safety

Introduction to Pesticides. Pesticides can play an important role in managing disease-causing insect and rodent populations, increasing crop and livestock yields by controlling destructive pests and invasive weeds, protecting homes from destructive termites, sanitizing drinking water, and disinfecting health care facilities, food prep areas and surgical tools. At the same time,  if used improperly, pesticides can be potentially hazardous to humans, animals and the environment.

MGVs have the opportunity to minimize pesticide risks by educating the public on the responsible use of pesticides. They can communicate the following:

• IPM: They can teach the ways of integrated pest management (IPM) which encourages prevention first and pesticides as a last resort.
• Pest ID: They can help individuals identify pests and, when necessary, find appropriate pesticides.
• Product information: They can help individuals weigh the risks and benefits of specific products.
• Label instructions: They can encourage them to read the product labels carefully and avoid overuse (and subsequent pesticide resistance) under the mistaken adage “if a little is good, a lot more will be better.”

Pesticide Laws

Federal and state laws govern the registration, labeling, sale and use of pesticides in the United States. The Environmental Protection Agency and the Ohio Department of Agriculture have oversight for these activities on the federal and state levels, respectively. A pesticide applicator license is required in Ohio 1) to apply pesticides for hire, 2) to make applications to certain public areas and for a public institution, and 3) to purchase and use restricted use pesticides. Consumers do not need a pesticide license to purchase retail home and garden pesticides and use them on their home property.

Pesticides are defined broadly under federal pesticide law. A pesticide is a product that is intended to control a pest. Control may involve limiting, deterring, repelling or destroying. Pests may include diverse organisms such as weeds, insects, fungi, algae, bacteria, viruses, rodents and deer. Pesticide products used around home and garden (photo below) are quite diverse; flea and tick products, certain swimming pool chemicals and anti-microbial sanitizers are just a few examples. Some of these products are not commonly associated with pesticides. For example, if a bottle of household bleach claims to kill household germs, it will bear an EPA-approved pesticide label. Table 1 provides a list of some of the more common types of pesticides and their intended target.

Table 1: Common types of pesticides, purpose and target pest.

Pesticide formulations contain one or more active ingredients, the components that control the pest. The formulations also contain inert, or non-pesticidal, ingredients such as water or various additives that improve product performance. Examples of formu­lations used in home and garden products include aerosols, baits, dry granules, dusts, ready-to-use (no mixing), liquid concentrates and wettable pow­ders, the latter two are mixed with water. For the convenience of the consumer, one type of active ingredient might be packaged in several different formulations. For example, a ready-to-use product with a spray attachment is convenient to treat a small area, while a liquid concentrate may be more cost-effective to mix and treat larger areas.  
Manufacturers must register all pesticides through the EPA to market and sell them in the U.S. The EPA makes an exception for a group of active ingredients that the agency determines to pose minimal risk to health and the environment. These Minimum Risk Pesticides, or section 25b products (the designa­tion refers to the federal statute), are exempt from federal registration and the pesticide label review. Some states, including Ohio, do require 25b product registration; and commercial pesticide applicators in Ohio need a pesticide license to apply them.   

Pesticide Safety

While pesticides can be useful, they also can be dangerous if used carelessly or stored improperly. Here are some tips for pesticide selection and safety.   

• Identify the problem. Correctly identify the pest and make sure it is the source of the damage. If so, first consider non-chemical methods to control the problem. If those methods are not effective, or if the problem has become too serious, select the least toxic, yet effective, pesticide.
• Buy the right product. All products do not work in every situation. Labels tell what a product is meant to do and how it should be applied. Check labels for the application target (lawn, vegetable, fruit, etc.) and pest target.
• Buy the right amount. Buy only what’s needed and consider passing the rest on to someone else who can use it. Some products may not be good if stored for long periods of time. A larger size may not be a good value if it’s not all used within a year or two.
• Use the right amount of product for the job. Labels indicate the correct amount to use. Using more than what’s recommended is not better. It wastes the product and the money spent. In some cases, using more than the recommended amount can hurt people, pets, plants and the environment. If the label says to mix a product in another container like a sprayer, mix only enough pesticide to complete the job, thereby eliminating the need to store mixed pesticides. Carefully measure concentrates with measuring spoons or cups reserved and labeled only for that use. Also, keep separate sprayers for herbicides and insecticides. Even minute traces of herbicide residues in a sprayer used to apply insecticides or fungicides may severely damage plants.
• Pay attention to warnings. Warnings and directions tell how to use products safely and correctly. Follow directions about wearing gloves, goggles, boots or protective clothing (called personal protective equipment or PPE). Understand when and how to apply the product and when it’s safe for people or pets to reenter treated areas (re-entry interval or REI). Note how long to wait before picking fruits and vegetables to eat (known as the post harvest interval or PHI).
• Store products out of the reach of children and pets. Do not spray or store cleaning or pesticide products near pet food or water dishes. Use childproof locks on low cabinets and make sure that child-resistant caps and covers are in place. Teach children that household products are not toys. Pesticides should be stored in their original containers in a locked cabinet. Liquid pesticides should never be allowed to freeze and wet-able powders should remain tightly sealed and moisture-free to avoid clumping.
• Always keep products in original containers. If the original container is thrown away, then important information is lost in case of an emergency. Also, it’s especially dangerous to put products in food and beverage containers. Children might think that something in a familiar juice or soda bottle is good to drink.
• Wear protective gear. Follow label instructions for wearing protective clothing and gear. Clothing exposed to pesticides should be washed in detergent and hot water. Wash protective clothing separately from other laundry. After doing a load of protective clothing, run the machine through a complete cycle with soap to rinse out the machine. Disposable spray coveralls are available.
• Manage spills and exposure. Spilled pesticides can be absorbed with kitty litter. In the event of a spill, keep pets and children away from the area until it is thoroughly cleaned. If exposed to pesticides during mixing or application, wash with water immediately and follow label instructions. To prevent exposure, apply when there is no wind to cause pesticide drift.
• Keep records. Keep records of pesticide applications for reference should problems arise. Such records also help recall dates of application for the days before harvest in edible crops.
• Prevent harm to the environment. Outdoor lawn and garden products that run into ponds, creeks or other water supplies can contaminate drinking water and kill fish and birds. Apply products according to label directions to prevent harm to the environment. Avoid spraying products on a windy day to prevent drift that will inadvertently carry the product into the water supply for wild animals, damage surrounding plants and landscape, and harm beneficial insects. Never pour unused lawn and garden products down a storm or household drain. If the entire product can’t be used, pass it on to someone who can.
• Follow proper instructions for disposal. Most pesticide labels say “wrap in paper and place in trash” for both empty and partly filled containers. These instructions will soon be changed to read “call your local solid waste agency for disposal instructions.” It’s always best to contact local solid waste agencies, since many now collect unused pesticides. Also, call 1-800-CLEANUP, a private, national hotline, for information about local recycling and waste disposal.
• Know signs of pesticide poisoning. Pesticide poisoning occurs from direct contact with the pesticide. This includes absorption through the skin, mouth, nose and eyes. Pesticides will soak into clothing, and cause prolonged skin contact if the clothing, including leather or canvas shoes and gloves, are not removed immediately. Symptoms of pesticide poisoning include headache, dizziness, cramps, diarrhea, fatigue and weakness. If any of these symptoms appear, immediately call a family physician, 911 or the poison control center (800) 222-1222. Have the product label on hand to provide important information.

Read more:

• What Gardeners Should Know About Pesticides

Pesticide Labels

Every registered pesticide product comes with a pesticide label that provides essential instructions on how to safely and legally handle the material. Before registering a product for sale in the U.S., EPA scientists review a great deal of data on potential health and environmental effects to determine whether that product may be used in a way that the benefits of using the product outweigh the potential risks. The pesticide label contains conditions, instructions and precautions that are written explicitly to reduce the risks to an acceptable level.

It is impossible to entirely eliminate all risks from using a hazardous chemical. That is why following label instructions is so very important, and why users must read the whole label, not just the parts that provide instructions on how to mix and spray. All pesticide labels carry the statement: “it is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.” This statement declares the label a legal document and legally requires users to read and follow the label instructions.   
While the EPA approves every pesticide label and specifies what kind of information must be on it, manufacturers write the label. Hence, labels have no consistent format and the language can be confusing. In the remainder of this section, the pesticide label will be discussed to help MGVs read and understand pesticide label instructions.

Front Panel. The front panel, or first page of a pesticide label communicates the most critical information. This page will always feature the product brand name, active ingredient(s), and the percent of both active and inert ingredients by weight. The active ingredient is usually listed as a short, common chemical name followed by a much longer, descriptive chemical name (see below). It is very helpful to learn to distinguish pesticides by their active ingredient (the short chemical name) rather than brand name. Brand names are essentially marketing tools that may convey little information about the contents. For example, manufacturers may give similar sounding brand names to very different active ingredients, or without notice, may change the active ingredient sold under one brand name. Learning about the effectiveness of various active ingredients on target pest(s) will help the consumer make informed product choices. Furthermore, when seeking expert advice about pesticide effectiveness, the first question will usually be “What is the active ingredient of the product in question?” 

The signal word is prominently displayed on the front panel of pesticide labels and indicates the relative toxicity of the material to the user. The EPA assesses the toxicity of every registered pesticide, and assigns one of four categories: Danger (highly toxic or corrosive), Warning (moderately toxic), Caution (slightly toxic). The fourth level of toxicity is “practically non-toxic;” it is optional for manufacturers to include the signal word “Caution” for this least toxic of categories. Pesticides that can be fatal when consumed, inhaled or absorbed through the skin, will display “POISON” with skull and crossbones in addition to the “DANGER” signal word. These four levels of toxicity correspond to the LD5o of the pesticide (LD5o is the abbreviation for "median lethal dose."). This is the dose of a toxic substance required to kill 50% of a test population of animals. It is an estimate of toxicity. The lower the LD50 the more toxic the substance. A high LD50 means that more of a substance is required to make a toxic dose.

LD50 only indicates the acute toxicity or immediate effect (usually within 24 hours) of exposure. Also of concern are the long-term effects of exposure, called chronic toxicity. This is of greater concern to professional applicators handling chemicals on a daily basis.

Three routes of exposure -- oral, inhalation and dermal -- are the primary ways pesticides may enter the body and potentially sicken someone. A state­ment under the signal word will sometimes be in­cluded that indicates which of these routes of expo­sure are of greatest risk. The signal word is helpful to consumers who may wish to choose lower-toxicity materials. For those who may need to use the more toxic materials, it is an important warning.

Other key items found on the label front panel include the “KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN” statement and the EPA registration number, a unique identifier of the pesticide product and confirmation of its legal registration. A restricted use classification statement will only appear on restricted use products. In this case, “RESTRICTED USE” would be emblazoned at the top of the first page. Restricted Use Products may only be purchased and used by certified applicators because the EPA has determined that the hazardous nature of the product requires a higher level of competency from the user. Restricted use products are not sold in the home and garden retail trade.

First Aid, sometimes called “Statement of Practical Treatment,” will provide instructions in case of accidental exposure. Specific instructions for medical personnel may be included in this section as well as an emergency hotline number. If seeking medical care because of exposure to a pesticide, it is essential to bring the pesticide label to the medical treatment center and give it to the attending physician.  

Precautionary Statements guide the user to protect himself, others, domestic animals, and the environment. Pay special attention to the personal protective equipment requirement. At a minimum, wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, shoes and socks when mixing, applying, and cleaning up after applications. Some products may require additional protection such as chemical-resistant gloves or footwear, a dust-filtering mask, or eye protection. User safety recommendations will include instructions for applicators to wash hands before eating, drinking, chewing gum, using tobacco or using the restroom. An entry restriction, sometimes referred to as a restricted entry interval, appears on some pesticides, especially liquid sprayable formulations. This interval is the period following an application that people and pets must be kept from entering the treated area. Many spray products used around the home only require keeping people and pets away until treated surfaces have dried, but longer intervals may be required for some products. Environmental Hazard Statements may include statements pertaining to wildlife, pollinators, surface water, ground water, aquatic life, or any variety of non-target organisms. It is imperative to follow instructions to avoid injury to any of these. Physical or chemical hazards will describe fire, explosion or other product hazards, if any.  

Storage and Disposal. This section of the label will provide specific instructions for safe storage and disposal. Pesticides should be tightly closed and kept in a cool, dry, secure storage location, out of reach of children and pets. Pesticides should not be stored near heat sources or be allowed to freeze. Keep away from fertilizers, food and animal feeds to avoid cross-contamination. Store pesticides in their original containers with labels firmly attached. Never put pesticides into non-pesticide containers, especially food or drink containers; this is against the law. Most retail products intended for homeowner use allow the empty container to be discarded in the garbage; however, never discard unused product with the trash. Prior to disposal, the label may require triple-rinsing the container from a concentrated product. To accomplish this, fill container one-third to one-half full with water, shake and empty, repeating twice more. Always rinse the container when mixing the last batch of pesticide so that the rinsate may be used up in the final spray mixture. For pesticide that is no longer needed, be aware that pesticide labels explicitly prohibit disposal down indoor or outdoor drains. Contact the local solid waste authority for unused pesticide product disposal. Another option may be a community event for the disposal of hazardous household chemicals.  

Directions for Use. This section indicates what pests are controlled, how much to use, how to mix and apply, and what kind of application equipment to use (if applicable). This section also describes the product’s registered uses. All pesticides are registered for specific purposes or uses which indicate the location, situation, or crops where the pesticide may be legally used. Examples of these include landscape beds, lawns, vegetable gardens, and indoor or outdoor living areas. It is against the law to use a pesticides on any site, for any purpose, or on any type of crop not explicitly mentioned on the label. For example, all of these pesticide uses would be strictly illegal: rodent bait used inside the home when labeled only for outdoor structures; insecticide applied to lettuce when only beans, tomatoes and cucurbits appear on the label; algaecide applied to a pond when labeled only for use on sidewalks and structures. It is, however, legal to use a pesticide on a pest that does not appear on the label as long as the site is included. For example, a pesticide labeled for controlling dandelions in lawns could be used on other weeds growing in the lawn, even if the specific weed did not appear on the label (of course, that weed may not be controlled). If that same product were only labeled for lawns, it could not be used in vegetable gardens or landscape beds. The directions for use section also specifies the amounts and frequency of use. Never apply a pesticide at a higher rate or more frequently than specified by the label; this would be pesticide misuse and is also against the law.

For pesticides that are labelled for use on food plants, a specified pre-harvest interval may be given for each crop. The harvest interval will specify a waiting period between application and harvest that must be observed to ensure that harvested crops do not contain harmful levels of pesticide residues. Pesticides break down in the environment over time. Waiting for the specified time period ensures that any pesticide residues remaining on the crop do not exceed the maximum crop tolerances as determined by the US EPA.    

A few more reasons to read pesticide labels carefully. In addition to essential safety information, a pesticide label can provide information on how the material works, how long it takes to be effective, and what to do to achieve the best results. For example, a pesticide label may state “to control target weeds, good to excellent spray coverage is required.” This means to apply the material evenly, avoiding skips, evenly wetting the leaves, but not excessively drenching the foliage. Other examples of key product information might include instructions to water in the product with light irrigation (1/2”) after application, to spray at least 1 hour before rainfall or irrigation occurs, or to shake the product before use. If label instructions such as these are ignored, the product may fail to control the pest!

Protecting Yourself, Others & the Environment

Protecting Yourself

Pesticide poisoning occurs from direct contact with the pesticide. This includes absorption through the skin, mouth, nose and eyes. Pesticides will soak into clothing, and cause prolonged skin contact if the clothing, including leather or canvas shoes and gloves, are not removed immediately. Symptoms of pesticide poisoning include headache, dizziness, cramps, diarrhea, fatigue, and weakness. If any of these symptoms appear, immediately call 911 or the poison control center (800) 222-1222. 

The best way to avoid pesticide poisoning is to prevent self-contamination. Be sure to use the specified personal protective equipment. Protective equipment includes personal clothing (long-sleeved shirt, long pants, socks and shoes (or boots) as well as any other gear specified on the label, such as waterproof gloves, goggles, dust mask or respirator.  Waterproof gloves and boots are highly recommended when using any pesticide whether or not required by the label. Avoid leather shoes or boots and cotton gloves because these natural materials will readily absorb pesticides. Tuck gloves inside sleeves to prevent liquid or dry material from getting inside the gloves and contacting your skin, and for the same reason, pant legs should cover boots. An exception would be when spraying above shoulder height, when pesticide spray might run down the glove and under the sleeve. In this case, tuck the shirt sleeve into the gloves.

Remember, while applying pesticides, do not eat, drink, or smoke to avoid self-contamination. Wash hands before using the restroom. Mix pesticides in a well-ventilated area and take care to avoid the chemicals from coming into contact with your skin, eyes, or mouth. 

Clean the sprayer after each use and maintain equipment in good working order. Certain pesticide formulations (wettable powders, flowables) may clog spray nozzles; use a small brush to clean sprayer nozzles and screens. Because it is very difficult to entirely remove herbicide residues from a spray tank, it is advisable to keep a dedicated, well-labeled sprayer for use with herbicides to avoid herbicide contamination of other types of pesticides.

Clearly label and store measuring cups or spoons used for pesticides in the pesticide storage area to avoid having them used for any other purpose.

After applying pesticides and cleaning equipment, first rinse the outside of protective gear as needed then remove carefully to avoid self-contamination. Clean the gloves, boots and other protective equipment with detergent and water after each use and store them away from pesticides to avoid contamination. Remove protective clothing (shirt, pants, socks) and store in a plastic bag until it can be washed. Wash protective clothing separately from the family laundry using heavy-duty detergent and hot water in the wash cycle, and follow up with two rinse cycles. Run the washer through an entire cycle with detergent only (no clothes) to remove any pesticide residues from the washing machine before washing other loads. Any clothing that is contaminated with concentrated chemical should be discarded rather than laundered.

After cleaning the application equipment and protective gear and storing the pesticides securely, wash up with soap and water and change into clean clothing.

Protecting Others and the Environment

To minimize risks of pesticides' harm on the envi­ronment, it is important to take steps to apply them responsibly.

When applying pesticides, be conscious of neighbors and pets that may be nearby. Under no circumstances should pesticides be allowed to drift on or otherwise contact people or pets. Keep others away from the treated area until sprays have dried and any restricted entry interval has elapsed. Be careful when using baits or pelleted materials around pets. Animals may be attracted to them and eat them. Avoid spraying when the wind is strong enough to cause drift to non-target areas, and pay close attention to any sensitive sites downwind from the application. Sensitive sites to avoid include living areas, school yards or other locations where children play, vegetable gardens (unless labeled for them), butterfly gardens, wildlife or animal feeding areas, and bodies of water. Avoid spraying near any water features because some pesticides are highly toxic to aquatic organisms. When using pesticides that are harmful to bees, do not spray plants that are in bloom – including weeds. Pollinators visit many weedy plants, so spraying a large patch of weeds in bloom or any other areas where they forage can be as harmful as spraying an apple tree in flower. 
 Never leave pesticide containers open or unattended before, during or after your application. If a pesticide spill occurs, act immediately to contain the spill. Spilled granular or dry material may be swept up and reused. For liquid materials, oil adsorbent, kitty litter, sawdust, or other absorbent material may be used to soak up the material. Sweep up the absorbent material into a plastic bag and dispose of as you would a pesticide. Rinse the area with water, using more absorbent material to capture any concentrated rinsate.

Some types of pesticides may contaminate water. Always avoid mixing or washing equipment near drains, storm sewers, well heads, or bodies of water. For soil applied pesticides, never apply to frozen or saturated soils, because under these circumstances the chemical cannot be absorbed by the soil and is at risk of being swept from the site with heavy rain. By the same token, avoid any pesticide applications when heavy rains are expected.

Purchase small quantities of pesticide and mix only what is required for the job. If more is mixed than needed for a job, disposal can be a problem. In this case, the best option is to use any remaining material on a labeled site. For example, if a lawn insecticide were used, and some of the dilute mixture was left over after the job was complete, it would be acceptable to spray out the remainder on another section of lawn. Never discard concentrated or diluted pesticide mixtures down a drain.    

More Information

• Human Poisoning: National Poison Control Hotline 1-800-222-1222

• Pet Poisoning Emergency Advice – fees apply


• The Safety Data Sheet (SDS, formerly Material Safety Data Sheet) is an additional hazard information resource for any potentially hazardous chemical that is distinct from the pesticide label. Worker access to SDS labels is required when handling or transporting any hazardous chemicals. SDS sheets as well as pesticide labels may be found on manufactures websites.

• Is this pesticide labeled in Ohio? See the National Pesticide Information Retrieval System (NPIRS) tool below and select a state to search that state’s registered pesticide database.
• Call or view the website of the National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC). NPIC provides objective, science-based information about pesticides and pesticide-related topics to enable people to make informed decisions. The website features factsheets, FAQs, videos in Spanish and English.
 1-800-858-7378

• Resources for Ohio pesticide applicator licensing, certification and training. 614-292-4070

• To report a pesticide misuse in Ohio: Call the Ohio Department of Agriculture | 614-728-6987
• National Pesticide Information Retrieval System (NPIRS)